Most mushers don’t like to run during the “heat of the
day”, typically between 1 or 2 PM and 5 or 6 PM. Even if it is cold out, this is a low period
in the dogs’ biorhythms and running during those hours, they are slower and it
seems to take more out of them. There is
another low point for both mushers and dogs, in the wee small hours of the
morning around 4 AM or so. That is where
the “getting on a good run / rest cycle” comes from. So the 2PM re-start puts the early bib
numbers out when they least want to run. Some mushers will enter after the
first day to avoid that, but most have another issue in mind.
The trail from Skwentna to Rainy Pass typically
doesn’t exist until Iditarod puts it in for the race (Iron Dog goes through
Shell Lake, not One Stone). Finger Lake
is deep snow country, with 15 feet of snow on the ground being common. If there isn’t continuous traffic on the
trail, the trail breakers can only pack the top of the snow pack. As the race comes by the trail breaks up and later
teams have slower / harder pulling. You
can see who really worries about this by watching to see who the first 10
mushers into Finger Lake are. By the
time the back of the pack gets there (yours truly), there can be trenches on
the corners and downhill parts (anywhere mushers ahead used their brake to slow
down) that are a couple of feet deep. In
2009 the trench on the steps was deeper than I am tall. Of course the new mining activity in the area
and going around the steps this year could change that.
Most competitive mushers will go to Rohn in three
runs. Some mushers like to run to Yentna
Station (or just past), then to Finger Lake, and then a long run from Finger to
Rohn. But the favorite among competitive
mushers is to run from Willow to Skwentna, about 70 miles, (or just before or past),
rest there, and move quickly through Finger Lake to Finnbear (Helicopter) Lake
(about ½ way between Finger Lake and Rainy Pass Lodge – about 55 miles). From there it is an easy run to Rohn, about
50 miles. Sebastian likes to hold to his
run/rest cycle and will camp past Rohn, but most people stop there (more on
Rohn in a bit).
There are advantage and disadvantages to camping Vs
staying in the checkpoint. If you are
camping you will need to melt snow for water for the dogs (about 25 min) and
fix your own meal. Yentna Station has a
hole in the river for water (much faster than melting snow – just heat it) and a
spaghetti feed in the checkpoint for the mushers. Skwentna has hot water and hot potluck meals with
a warm place to sleep. Finger Lake has a
hole in the lake for water and a gourmet meal (black bean burritos?) for the
mushers. Finnbear Lake has a hospitality
stop with a warm cabin to sleep in, stew, and hot water for the dogs.
But early in the race the checkpoints are crowded
(everyone is still packed together) and that compromises the quality of the rest
of the musher and dogs and exposes both to more colds and viruses. The odd distances between checkpoints throws
off the run / rest cycle that you are typing to establish. There is always something to think about. Watching who stops where will tell you how
they rank these priorities.
Rohn is only a small cabin, but it is nestled in big
trees that effectively shelter it and break the wind (which typically blows strongly
up or down the canyon). It has great
tasting water from a shallow part of the river against the bank that never
freezes, but that is a ¼ mile walk each way.
Most mushers stop here to regroup before tackling the Bison Tunnels (not
tunnels so much anymore, but frequently blown clear of snow), the new burn area
and the old Farewell Burn. Then it is off
to Nikolai with the first running water you have seen since leaving home, clothes
dryers for your gear, hot water for your dogs, free food for the mushers, a
quiet place to sleep in the school gym, and internet access. An almost unresistible combination.
For mushers who don’t want to make the long run to
Nikolai without a break, about ½ way there is Bison Camp – a guided hunting
camp and the last sheltered area from the wind.
It is open to all with wood for the stoves. About 15 miles from there is Sullivan Creek,
another favorite because the creek never freezes (there is a bridge over it for
the trail and a bucket on a rope to get water).
Finally there is Martin’s favorite, a fish camp about 15 miles from
Nikolai that sets you up nicely for a run to a 24 in McGrath.
Of course all the mushers are positioning themselves
for their 24 at this point, typically in McGrath (great support, stores and
repairs if needed, hot water for the dogs), Takotna (great food, hot water for
the dogs), or for some, Ophir (just a cabin, with a warm tent to sleep in, but
typically very quiet). Swingley used to
like to go to the halfway point to take his 24 to avoid the crowds, but
recently most competitive mushers have been nervous about the trail which typically
doesn’t exist until Iditarod puts it in and there are no reports about quality,
and have not pushed through to there to 24.
Watch your favorite mushers and maybe this will help
explain why they stopped where they did.
Keep ‘em Northbound
Eric
